A Guide to Valencia

Valencia isn't a place I visit. It's a place I return to, again and again, because half of my heart already lives there. My dad and sisters call this city home, I went to university here, pursued my track and field journey, and it's also where I fell in love with my now fiancé, so many of my life's most important chapters have had this coastline as its backdrop.

Despite being Spain's third largest city, Valencia has somehow held onto a rare, intimate neighbourhood feel, delivering the best of both worlds: a culturally rich historic core paired with an uninterrupted stretch of Mediterranean coastline.

It's a city built on contrasts, high energy with the likes of the fireworks and craziness of Las Fallas that sit comfortably alongside quiet daily rituals like a morning run through the old riverbed. And unlike most destinations, Valencia doesn't really have an off season.

Peak summer brings sunny coastal swims, long seaside lunches and late drinks under the palms. As the rest of Europe cools down, the city settles into a soft amber winter light, all mild afternoons, wine in quiet plazas and unhurried paellas. Either way, being here brings my whole system back into balance.

Where to Stay

MYR Palacio Vallier: A grand 19th-century residence tucked into one of the city's many picturesque squares. High ceilings, polished marble, and a quiet, sanctuary environment, it feels far more like staying in an elegant, private city manor than a standard hotel.

Only YOU Hotel Valencia: Positioned in the historic centre, this is a top pick for design enthusiasts who want to be right in the action. Modern interiors, a buzzing ground floor bar, and lovely iron balconies overlooking the historic streets.

Las Arenas Balneario Resort: Directly facing the sea, its grand coastal architecture features expansive thermal spa facilities. Falling asleep to the actual rhythm of the tides right outside your terrace is pure perfection.

Estimar Valencia: A fresh, design-forward hideaway in the heart of the city. Think clean lines, warm Mediterranean tones, and an effortless rooftop vibe that feels tailored for long drinks at golden hour.

Helen Berger Boutique Hotel: Tucked away on a quiet street in the historic centre. Effortlessly chic with retro modern touches, warm lighting, and a gorgeous down-stairs bistro that draws an intimate local crowd.

Casa Clarita: A whimsical, ultra-curated boutique stay created by designer Jaime Hayon. Set inside an old artisan house, it's packed with playful ceramics, terracotta details, and distinct personality.

Coffee & Morning Spots

Valencia's cafe scene has expanded rapidly, but these are my absolute go to spots for a slow morning:

Maison Matcha: A calm, minimal haven dedicated to ceremonial matcha in the city centre. Natural stone tones and ultra clean aesthetics. You have to try their Iced Strawberry Matcha or the house Matcha Horchata.

Bluebell Coffee Roasters: Hidden behind a quiet doorway in Ruzafa with a leafy garden patio. Excellent house roasted beans, meticulous filter pours, and great sourdough toasts.

Pasaje 94: Equal parts specialty espresso counter and independent gallery space in the historic center. Ideal for catching up on local art while sipping a morning brew.

Fiveo Bar: A bright, welcoming spot in the historic centre with a charming courtyard space, my top recommendation for an unhurried cinnamon bun.

Casa Fran: Pouring beans from Copenhagen's La Cabra alongside savory shakshuka and whipped ricotta on toast.

Los Picos: A relaxed neighborhood fixture in Ruzafa with outdoor street seating and fantastic toasted sandwiches.

Fav Coffee: Run by the friendliest owners who always make you feel right at home, the ultimate spot to settle in with a notebook, and enjoy a smooth cold brew alongside one of their famous cream buns before heading out into the shops.

Pals: This new kid on the block has quickly become a local insider favorite. Expect great tasting coffee and arguably the best Basque cheesecake in the city.

Eats

Casa Montaña: A legendary 1836 wine tavern in El Cabanyal lined with dusty oak barrels and centuries of history. It's the ultimate spot to sit at the wooden bar, sip great wine and graze on incredible cured jamón and local dishes.

Casa Carmela: An absolute institution for Paella set right back from Malvarrosa beach. The benchmark for traditional paella cooked over real wood fires, complete with that prized, crispy “socarrat” bottom layer of rice.

Santa Rita: A small, incredibly atmospheric kitchen in the old town. Known for exceptional dishes like their rich lobster pasta and a warm, personal style of hospitality.

San Tommaso: A cozy, candlelit Italian spot tucked into El Carmen. Prosciutto hanging overhead, handmade pastas, and a lively, romantic atmosphere.

Bodega Anyora: An authentic 1930s tavern in Cabanyal. Natural wines, traditional vermouth, and great local food served in a rustic setting.

Central Bar by Ricard Camarena: Grab a counter seat inside the iconic Mercado Central for market-fresh tapas and sizzling razor clams.

Café Madrid: The historic birthplace of Agua de Valencia.

Explore

Cycle the Turia Gardens: Cycle or walk along the Cauce del Turia, a 9-kilometer green park built inside a former riverbed that cuts through the entire city.

Wander the Historic Silk Exchange: Take in the stunning 15th-century Gothic vaulted ceilings inside the UNESCO-listed La Lonja de la Seda.

Taste Local Produce at Mercado Central: Browse hundreds of vibrant stalls under a massive stained-glass dome in one of Europe's oldest food markets.

Watch the Sunset at L'Albufera: Rent a boat to drift across this tranquil freshwater lagoon as the sky turns brilliant shades of gold.

Sip Fresh Horchata at Santa Catalina: Try Valencia's traditional tiger nut milk paired with warm, sugary fartóns at a historic cafe.

Climb the El Miguelete Bell Tower: Scale the Cathedral's winding spiral staircase for breathtaking 360-degree views over the city's tiled rooftops.

Bar Hop Through Ruzafa: Spend an evening jumping between natural wine bars, craft breweries, and outdoor tapas terraces in the trendy bohemian district.

Dance Under the Palms at L'Umbracle: Sip cocktails in a sweeping open-air tropical palm garden before heading down to the nightclub below.